(helen storey)
Materials Research:
The worst fabrics for the environment: Cotton, synthetics and animal-derived materials
1) Cotton:
While cotton is a natural fibre that can biodegrade at the end of its life, it is also one of the most environmentally demanding crops.
Wilby explains that cotton is “very water intensive to cultivate and process”, taking between 10,000 and 20,000 gallons of water to make a single pair of jeans and up to 3,000 to make a T-shirt.
According to Fashion For Good, conventional cotton production accounts for one sixth of all pesticides used globally, impacting farmers and local communities with harmful chemicals
2) Synthetics (Polyester, Nylon and Acrylic)
Not only are synthetics not biodegradable, they all rely on the petrochemical industries for their raw material, meaning this fashion industry staple is dependent on fossil fuel extraction.
“the use of fossil fuels brings with it other detrimental issues including oil spills, methane emissions and wildlife disruption and biodiversity loss”,
“It doesn’t stop at the manufacturing stage either, every time you wash a polyester garment it releases microfibres into our waterways causing immense damage to marine life and vital ecosystem,”
3) Animal-derived materials (Wool, leather and fur)
protein-based fibres like wool account for less than two per cent of all fibres used and, if produced without using or retaining any substances of concern, they can be safely biodegraded.
However, materials like leather are responsible for huge methane outputs which Wilby says is rarely noted in conversations about sustainable fabric manufacturing.
Methane is at least 20 times as strong a greenhouse gas as CO2 and the United Nations’ Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO) estimates that livestock are responsible for about 14.5 per cent of the world's greenhouse gas emissions.
Extinction Rebellion states that one billion animals are killed for leather every year while 85 per cent of the worlds leather is tanned with chromium, an extremely toxic substance that often leaves tannery workers with cancer and skin conditions.
The best fabrics for the environment: Recycled, man-made cellulose and bast fibres
1) Recycled fabrics
For example, recycled polyester – a more sustainable alternative to virgin polyester – uses up to half as much energy to make and saves plastic from landfill.
However, it is worth noting recycled polyester still sheds microfibres so Wilby suggests using a product like a Guppy Bag, which reduces fibre shedding and filters the few fibres that do break through.
2) Man-made cellulose fibres
If produced without using or retaining any substances of concern, cellulose-based fibres can be safely biodegraded.
Lycocell: (https://lyocell.info)
· Lyocell is a natural, manmade material made from wood cellulose or pulp.
· It is used to make things like bed linens, denim, shirts, T-shirts, trousers, and even towels.
· Lyocell material has a very smooth surface and a beautiful appearance. As for the feeling it gives, it is soft, breathable, light and comfortable. As if that wasn’t enough, Lyocell is made to last a long time. Its elasticity and strength make it perfect for the acquisition of durable items, which is why this fibre is widely used to produce sportswear. Although it is a little more expensive than cotton or linen, its quality is worth the investment.
· Lyocell is a biodegradable product. Its manufacture does not produce by-products harmful to health or the planet, while cellulose, its main ingredient, is obtained from well-managed forests.
Disadvantages of the lyocell fabric:
Price
From a consumer’s perspective, lyocell fabric is more expensive. This is because of the technology used in processing. It simply costs more to produce, and this is transferred to buyers.
Fairly low surface energy
The fairly low surface energy of Lyocell fiber makes it difficult for dyes to bind to it during production.
On the major brands that manufacture Lyocell products, from sheets to pants and shirts, you can visit the stores of renowned companies such as H&M, Levi’s, Victoria’s Secret, PBteen, Ted Baker and Hanes. In their catalogues, you will find Lyocell products.
Organza:
Sustainable?
(https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/organza-eco-friendly) Organza is made from silk, synthetic materials such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, or cellulosic fibers such as rayon. It's usually not eco-friendly
Organza used to be made primarily from silk. But silk is expensive because of its very limited availability and high manufacturing costs.
Silk manufacturing involves many slow and laborious fabrication processes, such as farming thousands of cocoons, spinning fibers, weaving cloth, bleaching, dyeing, and treatment.
Organza production is oftentimes unethical and unsustainable. It creates waste, pollution, and carbon emissions. It involves the use of toxic chemicals that put ecosystems and human health at risk. When organza is made from silk, it's an animal-derived product. 5,000 silkworms are required to only produce one kilogram of silk. The farming, killing, and harvesting of thousands of silkworms is not only cruel and unnecessary but also highly damaging to the environment.
When organza is made from synthetic fibers, it has a significant negative impact on the planet. Petrochemical and petroleum-derived materials such as polyester, nylon, and acrylic make environmentally damaging fabrics.
(https://www.panaprium.com/blogs/i/sustainable-synthetic-fabrics)
The most sustainable synthetic fabrics are recycled polyester, nylon, spandex, lyocell, and biobased plastics. They are made-fibers used for clothing production that also protect the environment much better than other conventional fabrics.
Most materials aren't eco-friendly and should be avoided at all costs. Environmentally damaging fabrics to avoid are:
· viscose-rayon
· acrylic
· conventional cotton
Recycled polyester
Polyester represents 52 % of the global fibre production.
Recycled polyester is a high-quality sustainable material. It's usually made from PET plastic bottles. It can also be made from other post-consumer plastics such as discarded textiles or ocean waste.
Recycled nylon
Recycled nylon is manufactured from post-consumer and post-industrial wastes, such as fabric scraps, carpet flooring, fishing nets, and industrial plastics from landfills and oceans.
Polyamide (what nylon is made from) is much more difficult to recycle than polyester. But the production of recycled nylon has a far lower environmental footprint compared to virgin nylon.
Not all recycling is environmentally friendly. Recycled polyamide production requires lots of chemicals and water. A large majority of used resources during manufacturing must be reused and not unloaded into the nearby surrounding to make the process sustainable.
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